This Month’s Speaker:

         Dr. Mary Lamberts has a doctorate in Vegetative Crops from Cornell. She works for the Miami-Dade County Cooperative Extension Service as a trainer of professional pesticide sprayers who work in the outdoors for agriculture and the spraying of public places.

 

Address 18710 SW 288 Street
Homestead, FL 33030-2309

          Phone (305) 248-3311 (234)

           Although Dr. Lamberts has lived in Miami for 21 years she has also lived in Michigan, Illinois, Arizona and was schooled in Up-State New York.

          Her Presentation will be “Pesticides and the Garden”. In it, she will speak about what pests are, what pesticides are and what the alternatives to using them should be.

         Member Plant Sales Are On 

See You

Tuesday July 6^th 7:30 pm

Please turn off your cell Phones.

Bugs Mr. Rico Millions of them! (1)

 

June’s meeting featured: Adrian Hunsberger as our speaker. Adrian mostly spoke about insect control in South Florida. It is my understanding that she is an important part of the “Master Gardener Program” offered by the state. Also of note was a very memorable raffle table (more later) and deviled eggs.

 

Here now is VP Sandy Roth’s commentary on...

 

To Applicate or Not To Applicate,

That Is the Question!

Some people (not to mention any names) may feel that using harsh pesticides is the answer to conquering the garden pest...ie Orthene, Cygon (2), Malathion, Benlyte....just to name a few. These products may rid the garden of scale, mealybugs, thrips...but they also kill off the beneficial insects such as butterflies, dragonflies, ladybugs ...not to mention the toxins that are sent into our air, seep into our soil and into our underground water supply which will end up back in OUR bodies...who knows what the long term affects are !!!

We should, as conscientious gardeners, be concerned for the future and utilize all the natural ways that are not harmful to our environment. Use insecticidal soap and oils, cut off infested leaves or branches, scrub off...if necessary. If you tend to your garden, water properly, fertilize on a regular basis and place your plants in the garden where they will thrive ... they won't be stressed and be susceptible to attacks.

I shutter to think that the people who use harsh pesticides purchase toxic red mulch for their gardens !!

 

 Sandy Roth

 

Thanks to Alen and Rhonda Hernon for bringing this beauty to June’s raffle and for donating their proceeds to the Society. I was lucky enough to win this with 5 borrowed dollars, against stiff competition by two new members who each bought $20 of tickets – A Record.

Aechmea chantinii 'Black'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Growing Bromeliads from Seed
By Odean Head

Most of my experience has been with neoregelias but the procedure should be similar for most of the genera in the Bromelioideae sub-family. Growing seeds from the Tillandsioideae sub-family (Tillandsias, Vrieseas, Guzmanias, etc.) is quite different and its procedure is not included here. We must have some mature seeds before we can plant them. If our pollination was successful, we should have some mature seeds in three to six months. Remember, many bromeliads do not self pollinate and therefore depend on birds, insects or us to do the job before any seeds will develop. The seeds will form in a berry-like ovary located beneath the pollinated flower. The ovary will begin to swell in a month or two and will usually change to darker colors as the seeds mature. The best way to tell when they are ready to be harvested is to pull lightly on the seed pod. If it releases easily, the seeds should be ripe.

 

To harvest the seeds just squeeze the pod between your fingers and the seeds will squirt out the bottom end. The seeds will be in a sticky jelly substance that will make them harder to separate because some of them will try to stick together. Most people recommend that you wash and dry the seeds before planting. Squeeze the seeds into a small closeable container, add an inch or two of water and a drop of detergent, let them soak for an hour or two and shake it periodically. Strain the seeds and remove any pulp that came from the seed pod. Wash the seeds again with clean water and spread them on a paper towel to dry. When thoroughly dried spread them evenly on another paper towel cut to fit the container you are going to plant them in. If you prefer to plant them later just store in a dry, cool place and they should remain viable for several months. If you have more than you can use, Harvey Beltz would love to have them for the BSI seed bank. Just be sure to label them properly so that he knows what he is distributing.

 

Usually I am either too lazy or in too much of a hurry to use the seed drying procedure. I just squeeze the seeds directly on to a paper towel for planting. I use a plant label for the mass spread and a toothpick to separate seeds that are stuck together and to remove any pulp squeezed from the pod. This has been successful for me and expedites the overall procedure.

 

The planting medium should have fine texture. I use a mixture of one-half peat moss and one-half vermiculite. Since this mixture is hard to wet I pre-soak it before using. A good preventative measure is to add some fungicide to the water when you pre-soak the medium. Since the germinating and growing area for the seedlings will remain very humid for a long time it is susceptible to growing fungus. Starting with a sterile medium will help prevent this. Fill the pot (I use a 5" or 6" pot) about half full and firm it so that the top is smooth. Place the piece of paper towel containing the seeds on top of the mix and smooth it out. Do not cover the seeds. Cut a piece of plastic or saran-wrap and fit it on top of the plastic pot securing it with a rubber band or strip of panty hose. I prefer the panty hose because it does not deteriorate like the rubber bands do.

 

Put the pot in a warm, reasonably good light (not in full sun) and wait for the magic to begin. In about a week to ten days you should see the seeds begin to germinate. Very little care is needed in the next two or three months. The covered top will hold sufficient moisture in the pot for some time which will be evident by the moisture clinging to it. The seedlings like continuous humidity so if the mix appears to be drying out, don't wait too long to re-wet it. Watering at this stage should be done from the bottom by setting the pot in about an inch of water. Top watering when the plants are small could wash up the tiny roots and cause considerable damage. When the plants get about one inch tall I will remove the plastic and begin top watering using a weak fertilizer solution (one-fourth strength). The plants are still fragile so I use a suction cup (used in cooking for basting) and apply the solution very carefully around the tiny plants. I do this every two or three days.

When the plants become crowded in the pot I will move them to a community tray to keep their roots from becoming too entangled. Plant them about one inch apart which will provide space for additional root development while staying close enough to aid in retaining desirable humidity. I will continue to water with the baster until the root systems get well established and the plants appear to be strong enough to support overhead watering. I will also continue to water with the weak fertilizer solution often enough to keep the mix from completely drying out. If the seedlings are not already growing in good light (filtered sun), they should be moved there when placed in the community trays. This will reduce the legginess which would result from the continuous fertilizing.

 

I let the seedlings grow a long time in this community tray. In fact some of them may never leave the tray. As the plants grow and start to crowd each other they began to differ in appearance. This is where the culling procedure should start. Select only those that are beginning to show good potential and pot them into individual pots. You may go back to the tray several times as the plants grow for more selections or you may decide to throw the rest away. Look closely before you throw them away because sometimes the runts become the best cultivars. You may grow most of the ones you selected to maturity before making the final selection(s). Grow them under ideal conditions so that you can be sure of their potential. This will make it easier to cull. Try growing some.

 

© 1951-2004 Bromeliad Society International, All Rights Reserved

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Editor’s Note: I will be bringing this inflorescence to the July meeting. Anyone who wishes fruits containing seeds is welcome to them.

Xeric: being deficient in moisture; "deserts provide xeric environments"  

 

Mesic: Having or characterized by moderate or well-balanced supply of moisture

 

Stomata: is a tiny opening or pore, found mostly on the undersurface of a plant leaf, and used for gas exchange. Air containing carbon dioxide and oxygen enters the plant through these openings where it gets used in photosynthesis and respiration. Waste oxygen produced by photosynthesis in the chlorenchyma cells of the leaf interior exits through these same openings. Also, excess water is released into the atmosphere through these pores in a process called transpiration

Transpiration: is a continuous process caused by the evaporation of water from leaves of plants and its corresponding uptake from roots in the soil. Transpiration cools plants down and enables mass flow of minerals to where it is needed in the plant. Mass flow is caused by the decrease in hydrostatic (water) pressure in the upper parts of the plants due to the diffusion of water out of stomata into the atmosphere. Water is absorbed at the roots by osmosis, and any dissolved solutes travel with it through the xylem.

Vermiculite: is a natural miniral which expands with the application of heat. It is formed by hydration of certain basaltic minerals, and is often found in association with asbestos. Expanded Vermiculite is often used as a soil conditioner. 

 

Amaryllids: bulbous plants having snowy white to reddish flowers. Ex Narcissus, daffodil and

                                                                            Sources (3)

 

Dean Fairchild says “ has a compound inflorescence, so it must be Neo. Fosteriana or a cross there of.”

 

Karl Green says “It’s a Neomea a cross between Aechmea fascicl and who knows what.

Geoffrey R. Lawn says “it’s definitely a X Neomea but which one I don't know. I tried matching it up to the Bi-generics' photos on fcbs.org/ but there's nothing close enough there. If you do find the correct I.D. why not submit it to the Webmaster at fcbs.org/ so everyone will know ?”

This plant was at the May BSSF show. Would the owner please come forward and identify it.

 

The Answer:       Neoregelia Fosteriana X

                 Aechmea Fasciata 

 

For now...    (4)

To all my friends in the Seychelles, Queensland and the rest of the Southern Hemisphere, Thanks for participating in Name that Plant. However the response from our local community has been lacking.

So to motivate my fellow Miamians

Name that plant will now feature a prize.

Courtesy of:

http://www.tansolaire.com/

Address: 3210 Grand Ave., Coconut Grove, FL 33133
For appointments call 305.446.5551
Fax: 305.446.0242
Email: info@tansolaire.com

The Prize:

The TanSolaire Massage utilizes a professional blend of aromatic, all natural essential oils. Our techniques include Pressure Point, Lymphatic Drainage, Swedish, Deep Tissue, Sports Massage, Reiki, Thai and Mommy Massage.

Estimated Value $ 85.00

You will receive a gift box

The Rules: The first correct answer received to email NAMETHATPLANT@TIMEWOLF.NET wins. Winners must email their answer, verbal and written responses not accepted. Nicolas Crespo III is the sole determiner of victory no appeals will be entertained. However, I will entertain all rational discussion on the matter prior to determining victory.

Anyone can be disqualified at the Editor’s whim.

Welcome to a new feature of the Bromeliadvisoy, our own Home and Garden section where we will get a look at members’ homes and how they have incorporated Bromeliads into their gardens.

 

Carl and Margie Bauer moved to South Florida 11 years ago, a little bit after hurricane Andrew. Carl has worked for Dow Chemical, overseas, for most of his life, and moved to Miami to be Human Resources Director for Latin America. The Bauers bought a home built on 1 acre in what is now Pinecrest. The house, beat up by the storm but not in too bad shape. The yard, when we all know what Andrew did to us.

 

Bauer means farmer in German and Carl has such an affinity for gardening that he has earned the title “Master Gardener” from the State of Florida. Having lived in Europe (Holland), Texas and up north, Carl an Margie had gotten a lot of gardening experience in climates different from our own. So when they got here, they started volunteering at Fairchild to learn more about gardening in Miami. Working as the tram driver and not even knowing what a Bromeliad was, they met the Princes.

 

Moyna Prince gave Margie Bauer six bossa novas. 10 years after, there are more than a hundred climbing what I think is a Chinese Fan Palm and not a Palmetto. On the website is a wallpaper of a close up of this beautifully variegated plant.

 

Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, author of The Yearling, says that hammock is an Indian word for “island of trees”. These risings in the land stand only 6" above the water but that is enough for animals trees and Indians to choose these spots to dwell in because they are dry.(5)

Carl didn’t know it when he bought the house but it contained a Hammock. Five years after they moved in, Carl was informed that the Hammock needed to be cleaned out every year or so. So it was and now in it’s shade butterflies and bromeliads flourish. I can’t tell you how many Zebra Longwing Butterflies and other fauna do live in this Hammock, it’s a treasure.

 

Carl plants Coontie cycads, which are the only native cycad, to feed Atallah butterflies. Carl has many, but not too many, bromeliads growing on his trees. Examples are Aechmea Bert in an Avocado tree, Fireballs on a palm, Aechmea Rubins on a palm.

 

 

In addition to bromeliads Carl grows fruits and has a vegetable garden. His fruit trees include Persian Lime (sweet yeqr round), Papayas(Jamaican red), Ruby Red Grapefruit, Meyer Lemon, Jaba Tacabo (a Brazilian fruit, that tastes like vanilla pudding).

 

To grow tomatoes Carl’s uses an interesting technique. Since nematodes are the chief enemy of tomatoes (they eat the roots). Carl grows his plants in a raised bed and in $1 bags of dirt. The plastic bags are closed on the bottom preventing the nematodes from entering the growing medium of the tomato. Carl just cuts an X on the top of the bag and lets the tomato grow there.

 

 

 

The Bauers have done a great job with both the exterior and interior of their homes. I first got to see their home when they hosted the BSSF to o pre-show brunch. I don’t have the room to show you the pictures of Margie’s work space overlooking a bromeliad bed or Carl’s wood panneled study in this publication. But, on the web there will soon be a new section of the BSSF webpage titled BSSF Home and Garden. Look there for lots more picures and commentary.

 

Thanks to Carl and Margie for letting me debut this feature using their home. Carls said to me that he joined the BSSF because he really liked the people. Thats why I joined too. I hope this feature helps us all get to know the membership better.

 

WHY PESTICIDES HAVE A USE IN OUR GARDENS

 

Contrary to what the "birkenstockers" have to say about chemical applications, they DEFINITELY have a place in our South Florida gardens. I find it amusing that folks get hysterical when the word "chemical" is used in gardening! I'm sure that folks who thought the world was flat also got hysterical when it was suggested otherwise.

 

The first matter that needs addressing is what the definition of a pest is.

A pest may rightly be defined as something that affects the health and well-being of our plants. A pest must be identified and a working knowledge of behavior patterns and lifecycle established before a person decides to impart a specific approach to dealing with the pest.

 

The main pests in our backyards can be broken into 4 broad categories:

1. Insects and insect-like critters

2. Plant Disease (pathogens)

3. Weeds

4. Vertebrates (not your spouse or significant other...well, maybe....if he/she does more damage in the garden than good!)

 

While I could wax poetic on all of the above, the point of this article is to address the responsible usage of pesticidal applications to any of the above in a manner that is NOT harmful to ourselves or our environment. Many of the everyday things we eat (food), apply/ingest (medicines), wear (clothes), and grow (like those plants you bought at the store) have probably come into contact with some type of chemical pesticidal application and with good reason. THEY WORK! The question then, is why not in our backyards?

 

The naysayers would have you believe that if you apply systemic or foliar insecticides and fungicides to your plants, you are going to grow tumors, poison our water table, render the air unbreathable, and kill all the wonderful little creatures that inhabit our backyard.This is NONSENSE. If you read the label (very important), it will teach you a world of things you can do to not only safely apply the product, but do it in an environmentally responsible manner.

 

While I have no objections to the usage of biological controls like predatory insects (ladybugs, mites-yes there are good mites),microbial applications(bacillus thuringiensis), and the like, I have found through experience that over the long haul they don't work as effectively in our backyards as they do in a more controlled environment like interiorscapes and such. Why? Let's take ladybugs for example. You go down to the store and order up a couple hundred of the little guys and release them in your backyard. By the way, if you've got young kids, grandkids, etc. it's a great way to get them involved in the garden, so have them around when you do the release. You will see them move around in your yard for a day or so...and then they'll move around in your neighbor's yard, their neighbor's yard, etc., etc., etc. The main problem with beneficial insects is they move on and generally will not get the job done in YOUR yard because your whole neighborhood is most likely one huge buffet table for them!!

If you are dealing with scale, aphids, and other insects or insect-like critters outside, you can surpress the problem on a much more economical, practical, and effective level by using some type of chemical application. Now, that doesn't mean that you have to use the strongest chemical for your situation.

Here's where that label comes in again. If your insect/pathogenic problem is minor, a chemical application like an insecticidal soap (yes it's a chemical) or plain old isopropyl alcohol for insects can be effective (70% solution right out of the Walgreens bottle). I generally recommend a sliding scale approach to using pesticidal applications for a problem. First, use the weaker product on the scale. For example, say you are plagued by Cuban laurel thrips in your yard. Learn the cycle of the insect and it's feeding habits. The Internet is a wonderful tool in this regard. Second, try using a "soft" chemical like insecticidal soap or alcohol. If this spot treatment doesn't work consider a stronger chemical like Orthene wettable powder. I prefer powders to liquids for a variety of reasons, the primary ones being ease of use and cost effectiveness.

 

Another incredible falsehood that I continually hear is that "chemicals kill the beneficials". I have been using chemical applications for years and can assure you that the beneficials will NOT fall off the face of the earth if you use chemicals in your yard! Our THOUSANDS of acres of crops, nurseries, etc.

have been responsibly using chemicals for years and not one report of a decline in butterflies (they LOVE my chemical infested yard), dragonflies (same), or ladybugs (2 varieties visit us) has been issued by ANY reputable source to my knowledge in Miami-Dade. If you use the chemical responsibly, the bad bugs will die and the good ones will be fine. Most problem insects have piercing-sucking mouth parts while beneficials don't. Once the chemical application is made, the only guys generally dying are the ones your after!

 

Another ridiculous falsehood is that chemicals will send toxic waste into our air, and water. The fluoride in your tap water has a greater chance of hurting us than any of the commonly used chemicals in gardens getting into our water supply. They break down very quickly and generally don't pose any threat underground. However, I don't personally believe in the old-fashioned "spray to the point of runoff" philosophy though. Spray enough to cover the pest affected plants, but not to the point of drenching. As for the airborne issue, yes..

the chemical does go airborne....while it travels on the water that your applying it with! Water is the "horse" that the chemical rides to it's destination.

Most common chemicals don't float around in the air like little fairies on their own. They need a "horse" to ride. Of course, a conscientious and informed gardener should have already read the label.... and know that you should be properly attired (Personal Protective Equipment), and not spray on windy days...

or when your neighbor's having a barbecue next door!

 

We gardeners don't need to fear chemical pesticides. They are meant to help with many of the serious problems pests pose for us in the garden. THEY WORK.

 

So remember....that big cheeseburger your munching on as you watch your freshly released ladybugs fly off into the sunset probably has more toxins headed your way than anything you've just sprayed on your garden!

Next month....integrated pest management...the best of ALL worlds!

 

Peter Kouchalakos, F.N.G.A. Certified Horticultural Professional, Florida Licensed Commercial Landscape Maintenance Holder, Florida Restricted Use Pesticide Applicators License, Florida Certified Train the Trainer for Agricultural Workers and Pesticide Handlers, Member F.N.G.A.

 

 

Membership News:

 

 

2004 Bromeliad Show Member Plant Sales

 

          Member plant sales, while smaller than in the past, were nevertheless very successful. We were able to add over $1300.00 to our treasury, more than in the past. This was due to plants donated to the society by members for sale. Thanks for all of the help in the booth!

 

Carl and Margie Bauer

 

Blazing Hot Sun

 

            May and June had clear skies and a Sun that gradually rose out of the southern sky to bring more light to each day. Bromeliads (even full sun ones) are probably going to be damaged by this strong light if not under shade.

 

          July promises to have brighter stronger light. If you can, bring your plants into more shaded areas.

 

          Look for yellowing and even browning. These are signs that your Bromeliads are getting too much light, but don’t reduce the amount of light too drastically. Experimenting with locations can teach you the limits of your plants endurance and their preferred micro environment.

Coming In July:

 

 

July 24^th - 27^th 2004

Second Philippines Bromeliad Conference

Cagayan de Oro City, northern Mindanao.

 

Conference venue: Grand Caprice Hotel at the Limketkai Center.

Supported by the Dept. of Agriculture and the Northern Mindanao Ornamental Horticulture Foundation, including the Greater Northern Mindanao Bromeliad Society.

Guest speakers, exhibits and displays, bromeliad sales, rare plant auction, collection tours in a tropical Summer.

 

Contact:           Ruben Diaz Snr., Beebai's Garden,

Purok 10, Baloy, Cagayan de Oro City 9000, Philippines.

Email:               rubencdiazsr@yahoo.com

Phone: 0011-63-8822-733079.

 

For a Website report of the first Bromeliad Conference there and links to the region's exotic attractions, visit:

 

http://agri10.norminet.org.ph/News%20&%20Events/August/1st%20bromeliad.htm 

http://www.flora2004.or.jp/english/

July 1 Cassini Space Probe’s crossing of Saturn's Ring Plane during the spacecraft's critical Saturn Orbit Insertion sequence. Keep your fingers crossed.

Raffle Table

Josefa Leon & Arley Rodriguez

Door Prize

Alan Herndon

Sales Tables

Will Be Open to for Members to sell

Refreshments

Sandy Roth, Peggy Fisher and Clara will feed us at our July meeting.

Show and Tell

The Usual Suspects; Nat Leon, Steve Correale and a host thousands.

Name Tags for New Members

are available from Connie Johnson. Call her at 305-275-8595 to order yours. They are free the first time; there’s a nominal charge for replacements. Folks, please wear your name tags! It simplifies things for everyone.

Library

Lynne Fieber will have the library open from 7:00pm to 7:30 pm. Please return any books and publications you’ve checked out.

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Cool Website of the Moment

The Editor’s own Venus Transit Site

www.timewolf.net/VT

The Editor’s own Saturn Exploration Site

www.timewolf.net/SATURN

 

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Notes from the Editor:

 

There will be a sign-up sheet so that the member’s emails can be added to the roster 

 

You may reach me at Bromeliad@timewolf.net via Email or at10011 S.W. 133^rd Street Miami FL 33176 via Snail Mail.

 

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Sources:

(1) The line from Robert Heinlen’s Starship Troopers

(2) I know a woman that worked in South West Asia for almost 10 years and she says no one calls Saigon Ho Che Minn City – It’s Saigon, on the road signs, on the maps and on their lips. Ony Americans call it Minn City.

(3) www.thefreedictionary.com It is a cousin of Ask Jeeves

(4) Since I don’t know it’s real name. And I am a son of Adam, I will call it Neomea Phoebe after the 9^th Moon of Saturn. My current fascination.

(5) others say Hammock is a pollution of the English world Hummock that means the same thing.